Sennheiser Momentum M2 – USB port

Last Updated 9 November 2024


The micro USB charging port on my wife’s headphones was worn out and when they finally stopped charging I had to try to repair it.

The charging port, the volume control and the power button are located on a separate board. This board is quite easy to replace and there is even a guide on ifixit.com on how to do this. If Sennheiser had sold this board as a spare part this would be a really easy repair, but they do not and I have not been able to find it anywhere else.

I knew this would not be a easy repair, but I decided to try and replace the micro USB port on the board. This is the kind of repair that has a high risk of messing up, to the degree that it renders the object unusable. To be on the safe side I only do these kind of repairs when the owner consider the only alternative is to throw the object away. But my experience is that almost everything can be repaired.

After taking off the earmuffs there are 4 screws that has to be removed.

Then you have to be really careful when separating the two parts, the headphone jack is on a board fixed to the opposite side from the main boards and the cable is quite fragile.

After removing the two screws on the headphone jack board the two halves come apart. Then the lowermost connector with the blue and white ribbon cable must be flipped open. The three screws on the board with the USB port has to be removed.

Three screws on the middle ring has to be removed and then the board with the USB port is free.

I managed to de solder the old connector and replace it with a new one. This task took 100% concentration so I was not able to take any photos of the soldering process. There is a great guide by ErinTheSmall on instructables.com on how to replace a micro USB connector with only a soldering iron.

The old connector is off the board, but the new connector that I had was not of the exact same type. The back legs, that are supposed to go through the board, is not in the right place so I decided to just cut them of with a pair of medium duty wire cutters.

With the back feet cut off I managed to solder the new connector to the board.

Then, before assembling anything else, I installed the board back in the headphones to see if it worked. The blue light looks promising.

Since I had cut off the back legs on the connector I wanted to make sure the back part off the connector was a little bit better secured to the board. I removed the board from the headphones again and glued the back of the connector to the board with some hot glue.

I then reassembled everything and the headphones are now charging. Hopefully there is still a few years of life in them. For me, it was extremely rewarding to be able to succeed with a repair this difficult.

I found the instruction manual for the headphones. You can download it here:

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